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Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope

Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
crotch at pobox.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
SG
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Michael A. Riches
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
A. Cairns
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
A. Cairns
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
GOClimb
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
fern.webb at gmail.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
ichiloe at hotmail.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Dingus Milktoast
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
crotch at pobox.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Gary Schenk
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Gary Schenk
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
SG
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
A. Cairns
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
crotch at pobox.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Gary Schenk
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Dingus Milktoast
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Brian in SLC
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Martin Carpenter
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
melissa
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
ichiloe at hotmail.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Dingus Milktoast
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
melissa
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Sue
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Michael A. Riches
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Gary Schenk
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Sue
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
melissa
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Sue
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Clyde
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
troutboy
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Dingus Milktoast
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
x15x15
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
DingusMilktoast
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Martin Carpenter
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
Brian in SLC
 Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope  
ichiloe at hotmail.com
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:17 Jan 2005 14:06:05 -0800
Just doing my part to give ya'll something to talk about around here.

Highlights of this weekend's ie climbing trip to Hope, BC:

FRA of Powerhouse Falls, WI3. Two full 50-meter roped WI3ish pitches
followed by soloing up a rambly gully with short WI2 steps. It's not
in the brand-new guidebook, but it's hard to believe ice an easy
15-minute walk from the car and fully visible from the highway has
never been climbed. Still, it's hardly ever cold enough for ice to
form around Hope so it *might* be possible...but whatever. It was a
fun climb.

Standing around in the emergency room as the doc was figuring out the
fee for stitching up our friend Mark after he punctured his thigh with
a sharp stick. Chris's reaction to the final bill: "That's a
screamin' deal for sutures!"

My personal hardest lead to date, first pitch of Buszowski-Kippan at
Sumallo Bluffs. Still only WI3 I think, but sustained. I was totally
intimidated by the look of it, so it was a pleasant surprise to feel
solid on it, though I seriously need to work on placing screws with my
left hand.

*Not* falling into the river on the Sumallo Bluffs approach/descent,
like two other members of the party did. Casey fell in up to his
waist. Brrrr.

Running into friends at breakfast, dinner, the hotel, roadside
pull-outs, etc....When you have as small of an ice climbing community
as the Northwest and you climb in towns the size of Hope it's not
surprising, but it's still fun.

The Fred Beckey lookalike who gave us a ride back out to our car on the
Agassiz Road after we ran it out of gas and hitched back in to town to
get some.

The fact that running the car out of gas meant we weren't on a climb
when the freezing rain started.

The US border guard who told Lauren and I that he might have to send us
for a mental evaluation before letting us back in when we informed him
we'd been ice climbing, not skiing. He also won my heart by
double-checking my passport and announcing, "I just can't believe
1967." Yep, that's right, one cheap compliment and you're my
friend.

Anybody else do anything fun this weekend?
From:crotch at pobox.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:19 Jan 2005 11:46:33 -0800

kellie_mc...@urscorp.com wrote:
> Mmm, Bird of Fire. I loved that route, though I have to go back and
> not fall off it. I bet I know exactly where that guy fell.
> Fortunately my piece held.

There's a nice pic of Bird of Fire in the gallery section of the most
recent Climbing.
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 09:48:13 -0800

SG wrote:


Usually I refrain from during the ice climbing months.
>
>
>
Whyever would you do that???
From:SG
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 09:30:21 -0500
> SG wrote:

> Usually I refrain from during the ice climbing months.

>> kellie wrote

> > Whyever would you do that???

It's not by design you see, it's quite by accident although after many years
of the same type of behavior I guess it has become a sort of design.
Extended weekend trips to local and some distant ice crags are always
culminated with an extended session of sampling single malt Scotches. A
veiled attempt to harken back to some presumed ancestral connection to the
fore fathers of ice climbing I suppose. The almost certain level of
exhaustion coupled with the most certain state of inebriation leaves one in
less of a desirable state when returning home after the midnight oil has
burned out after a day or two of swinging your tool(s). However, this
self-imposed celibacy does leave one with enough paint in the can for a
couple of coats, if you will, and corrective action must be taken to
alleviate this over abundance of coating. It has yet to be proven whether
this corrective action has a direct impact on ones climbing and or drinking
performance. More beta sites are required.
From:Michael A. Riches
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 18:26:56 -0600
in article 1106070493.074427.201950@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com,
kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com at kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com wrote on 1/18/05 11:48
AM:

>
> SG wrote:
>
>
> Usually I refrain from during the ice climbing months.
>>
>>
>>
> Whyever would you do that???
>
Seriously, I can't of a really good reason...Somebody needs to take SG under
their wing and show him the ropes...

Ratzzz...(sheeeeesh, "NO SEX" during ice climbing season...??? How the hell
do warm back up...???)
From:A. Cairns
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:38:07 -0800


kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com wrote:

> Just doing my part to give ya'll something to talk about around here.

Mighty good of you. You manage some eventful outings. Congrats on your
hardest lead to date.

Coincidental with the arrival of ice in lower elevations, my own season
shut down. Last venture was the Kloochman Park traverse, naturally, both
directions, Jan 5, which might qualify as ice climbing because of the, you
know, ice. I had to stop every 10 feet to re-warm the hands and worried
about falling in until I realized that the water would probably be warmer
than me.

Andy Cairns
From:A. Cairns
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Wed, 19 Jan 2005 09:49:22 -0800


kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com wrote:

> Would that be Ro-bear-t Noo-gent?

He eventually learned that his name is Raw-burt. He was pointing out my
inability to pronounce "Oor Wullie". He says as a kid he could hardly
sleep Saturday nights in anticipation of the next installment. One of
them shows Oor Wullie climbing various things to escape the constable,
knocking things down on the constable's head, finally ko-ing the
gendarme and taking him by wheelbarrow the the hospital, where he tells
the doctor, "Climbing accident."


> I always think it's interesting to see the tangents that
> result from one little post. I don't obsess about keeping verbal
> convesations on-topic, I don't see why electronic conversations should
> be any different.
>
Sounds good to me.

Looking for intersections, chords, and parallels, too,
Andy Cairns
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 09:49:18 -0800
Would that be Ro-bear-t Noo-gent?
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:19 Jan 2005 07:40:23 -0800

Sue wrote:

>
> sorry for hijacking your thread Kellie.


Don't be, I always think it's interesting to see the tangents that
result from one little post. I don't obsess about keeping verbal
convesations on-topic, I don't see why electronic conversations should
be any different.

Hope you recover in record time, baby.
From:GOClimb
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:21 Jan 2005 06:46:18 -0800

ichiloe@hotmail.com wrote:
> Dingus Milktoast wrote:
> > Nice Kellie!
>
> I just got around to reading the whole thread...nice
> to see there's life and even climbing in rc yet.
> And started by a good TR.

Indeed!

> OK, rc got trolled by faux "bumblie." Today it's
> Supertopo's turn, roiled by another nom de
> rockclimbing.com.

I'm sad he/she/it's not sticking around. I enjoyed gnawing on that
hook.

GO
From:fern.webb at gmail.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:19 Jan 2005 20:06:15 -0800

As I have said before McBee. Way to Rock Out with your ... well you
know...

Too cheap to fix the gas gauge too?

Nice thing about the short drive to the climbs in Hope is the equally
short drive back to the pub when the freezing rain starts. Note to
self: Adze does not make a great substitute for windshield scraper.

->F

kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com wrote:
> Just doing my part to give ya'll something to talk about around here.
>
From:ichiloe at hotmail.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:21 Jan 2005 09:29:16 -0800
> Dingus Milktoast wrote:
>
> > Chiloe wrote:
> > OK, rc got trolled by faux "bumblie." Today it's
> > Supertopo's turn, roiled by another nom de
> > rockclimbing.com.

> There taint no scarlet letter T associated with being trolled my
friend.
> Taint no thang at all.

When I first started posting on rc, I got hooked right away
by a Batten. That experience made me leery, but not
trollproof for sure.

What seems new here -- correct me if it's not -- is the
emergence on rc and supertopo this week of trolls who
take on the identity of well-known rockclimbing.com
posters. The "bumblie" troll on rc seemed relatively
benign, maybe nicer than his original. The "alpnclmbr1"
troll on supertopo, on the other hand, appears meant
as an attack on his namesake.

Wave of the future, or just an opportunistic response to
the current implosion of rc.com?
From:Dingus Milktoast
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 17:50:32 GMT
> Wave of the future, or just an opportunistic response to
> the current implosion of rc.com?

Chaos theory as it pertains to weather.

DMT
From:crotch at pobox.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 12:33:30 -0800

Gary Schenk wrote:
> So when we showed up at Split Rock in Josh, we
> headed for Isle in the Sky to try Nectar. 5.4 with a star in
> Bartlett. Piece of cake, right? Not for us. After whimpering,
> whining, and cheating my way up it, I came to the last six
> difficult feet, above was the promised land of easy, low angle
> terrain. This is a wide crack, that stays wide. I placed my
> biggest tricam here. A bomber piece, too. But I didn't have
> anything else to place. So I lowered.

Are you sure you were on Nectar? From your description, it sounds like
the Dolphin. Squeeze chimney at the top? We missed you by a day- no
sign of tricams.
From:Gary Schenk
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:31:30 GMT
crotch@pobox.com wrote:
>
> Gary Schenk wrote:
>> So when we showed up at Split Rock in Josh, we
>> headed for Isle in the Sky to try Nectar. 5.4 with a star in
>> Bartlett. Piece of cake, right? Not for us. After whimpering,
>> whining, and cheating my way up it, I came to the last six
>> difficult feet, above was the promised land of easy, low angle
>> terrain. This is a wide crack, that stays wide. I placed my
>> biggest tricam here. A bomber piece, too. But I didn't have
>> anything else to place. So I lowered.
>
> Are you sure you were on Nectar? From your description, it sounds like
> the Dolphin. Squeeze chimney at the top? We missed you by a day- no
> sign of tricams.
>

No, pretty sure we were on Nectar. Didn't have a guide book with
us. This crack had some dihedral action going on, also. We got
all of our gear off by using the bolts on a route to the right.
There is NO WAY I'm leaving my tricams behind!

Our problem was just that we were weak. Too much time off. We'll
just setup some topropes next trip to get our rock legs back.

Did you climb Dolphin? God, that looks fearsome. There was a
party on a climb with a very vertical crack at the top a
couple of routes to our right. That was Dolphin?

--
Gary Schenk
remove 'fuzz' to reply
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:17 Jan 2005 15:09:04 -0800

Brian in SLC wrote:
>
> Hey, you know Loren aka Cascade Climber? Say hi for me!
>

Why yes, I spent four days climbing in Hyalite with him the weekend
before Thanksgiving. He was a whole lot of fun to climb with and I'd
go out with him again in a second, but good God can that man snore.
Next time....earplugs.

Snowpack out here has been weird out here this year too. Some ski
areas haven't even opened yet, and I was surprised on Saturday that the
ground underneath the fluffy powder snow wasn't even frozen.
Unconsolidated powder over loose rocks made for a sucky descent from
B-K, but that's part of the game.
From:Gary Schenk
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 03:26:25 GMT
kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com wrote:
>
> Anybody else do anything fun this weekend?
>

Yeah, had a great weekend, thanks. While not as interesting as
yours!

We hadn't been on rock since Oct. when we did a fun traverse of
Mt. Starr King. So when we showed up at Split Rock in Josh, we
headed for Isle in the Sky to try Nectar. 5.4 with a star in
Bartlett. Piece of cake, right? Not for us. After whimpering,
whining, and cheating my way up it, I came to the last six
difficult feet, above was the promised land of easy, low angle
terrain. This is a wide crack, that stays wide. I placed my
biggest tricam here. A bomber piece, too. But I didn't have
anything else to place. So I lowered.

Sent MJ up to finish it. Whenever I wimp out, she usually
scurries up and finishes it off, she is a much better climber.
When she couldn't do it, that was that. We left with our tails
between our legs.

At the campfire that night, everyone was quite sympathetic. It is
nice to have friends.

We consoled ourselves by hiking up Pinto Mountain Sunday. Steep
and rugged, it was nice at the top. The sweet silence of the
desert. The only sound was the desert wind blowing through my ear
hairs.

Then two hours of the Stanley Brothers and Utah Phillips on the
drive home.

--
Gary Schenk
remove 'fuzz' to reply
From:SG
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:43:00 -0500


> Anybody else do anything fun this weekend?

Does having qualify?



Being an ice climber and living in PA sucks this winter. We're almost a
full month behind schedule. Usually I refrain from during the ice
climbing months.



Congrats on your WI3 Lead. Nice TR too.
From:A. Cairns
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:26:32 -0800


SG wrote:

> >
> > Anybody else do anything fun this weekend?
>
> Does having qualify?
>
> Being an ice climber and living in PA sucks this winter. We're almost a
> full month behind schedule. Usually I refrain from during the ice
> climbing months.

Refrain? How adult of you. When wee Ro-bear-t and his somewhat older and
wiser compatriots awaited the Scottish winter the youngster was mystified
to hear the older lads refer to the time between rock climbing and ice
climbing as "hunting season". More a time-management problem/ two-choice
preference test.

Andy Cairns
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:19 Jan 2005 07:43:49 -0800
Mmm, Bird of Fire. I loved that route, though I have to go back and
not fall off it. I bet I know exactly where that guy fell.
Fortunately my piece held.
From:crotch at pobox.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 20:05:18 -0800
Nectar had a couple of pieces of rope stuck in it. I did manage to get
a wayward biner out of Nectar. Had to clip my nut tool to like 3
slings in series and go fish. Dolphin is the crack right of Nectar.
It's also in a right-facing corner. Goes from hands to squeeze
chimney, passing all the fun sizes along the way. Nice route. By the
time you have to leave your #5 behind, you can get in the crack so it
feels pretty secure. I think the fearsome looking crack you saw must
be Bird of Fire which ends as a steep fat-fingers crack.

Next time you're out there, check out the arete left of Nectar. You
can TR it from the Nectar anchors and it's got phenomenal movement.
From:Gary Schenk
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Wed, 19 Jan 2005 05:20:46 GMT
crotch@pobox.com wrote:
> Nectar had a couple of pieces of rope stuck in it...

Yep, saw that. There was a lot of junk in there.

> I did manage to get
> a wayward biner out of Nectar. Had to clip my nut tool to like 3
> slings in series and go fish. Dolphin is the crack right of Nectar.
> It's also in a right-facing corner. Goes from hands to squeeze
> chimney, passing all the fun sizes along the way. Nice route. By the
> time you have to leave your #5 behind, you can get in the crack so it
> feels pretty secure. I think the fearsome looking crack you saw must
> be Bird of Fire which ends as a steep fat-fingers crack.

Just got off the phone with a friend who was out there with us. He
said that was Bird of Fire. When I was floundering on Nectar, there
was a bloodcurdling scream from over there. The guy leading it had
come off at the top, and popped a piece to boot.

>
> Next time you're out there, check out the arete left of Nectar. You
> can TR it from the Nectar anchors and it's got phenomenal movement.
>

Thanks, will do. Definitely will return.

--
Gary Schenk
remove 'fuzz' to reply
From:Dingus Milktoast
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 07:40:00 GMT
Nice Kellie!

Cheers
DMT
From:Brian in SLC
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:21 Jan 2005 06:50:36 -0800

SG wrote:
> The almost certain level of
> exhaustion coupled with the most certain state of inebriation leaves
one in
> less of a desirable state when returning home after the midnight oil
has
> burned out after a day or two of swinging your tool(s).

Hmm...I wonder where the phrase, "whiskey dickin'" comes from...

Single malt neat. Still seems to go well with ice, as you've
indicated. Super!

Brian in SLC
(who'se not having too much of an ice season right now as the temps are
in the 40's)
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 09:46:25 -0800

melissa wrote:
>
> Well...I left SLC early Friday evening in hopes of nice weekend
weather in
> Yosemite, a choice that probably doesn't make much sense if you're
sending
> sustained WI3. I hit snooze for two solid hours on Saturday morning,
but was
> still primed for a decent day and a half of cragging as we headed out
of
> Berkeley around 9 a.m. Then some westbounnd dude decided to see if
he could
> squeeze in a left past the FedEx truck obscuring my existence in the
other
> eastbound lane. Smash-o!
>
> We scraped my bent wagon home, got in my boyfriend's, and took a road
trip to
> the gym in San Francisco instead. Woohoo!

Wow. Glad you're ok, and hope the repair bill won't be too steep.

Mind you, "sending" WI3 is like sending 5.4, but as Gary points out,
sometimes even that can seem mighty hard. I'd like to climb harder,
but somehow I'm much more conservative about pushing myself on lead
with ice than with rock. After this weekend, when not one but two
friends ended up in the ER, I'm sticking with that program.
From:Martin Carpenter
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 19:44:12 +0100

wrote:

> I'd like to climb harder, but somehow I'm much more
> conservative about pushing myself on lead with ice
> than with rock.

I know exactly what you mean. My conclusion was that I need to spend some
more time toproping harder stuff, but I'm not certain that's a winner, since
it's more the head game that I have trouble with (e.g., 6 screws in 30-odd
metres of WI3+).

The head game, and traversing. I really must stop trying to step through...


> After this weekend, when not one but two
> friends ended up in the ER, I'm sticking with that
> program.

Quite so.

I've seen two [minor] injuries already this season (not including the spots
of blood that badged the approach a couple of weeks back... that neither one
of us mentioned to the other) - one could have had a much worse outcome.
I've also made a few good decisions ("I'm not climbing in that circus") -
conservative decisions, but provably good. (NB. not trying to suggest that
your friends made bad decisions).

Softly, softly catchee WI5. One day. Maybe.

Martin, smug with uninjured cowardice.
From:melissa
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 12:36:32 -0800
In article <1106070385.640980.268730@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com says...

>Wow. Glad you're ok, and hope the repair bill won't be too steep.

Well...at least I won't be paying for it. (Not my fault.)

>Mind you, "sending" WI3 is like sending 5.4, but as Gary points out,
>sometimes even that can seem mighty hard. I'd like to climb harder,
>but somehow I'm much more conservative about pushing myself on lead
>with ice than with rock. After this weekend, when not one but two
>friends ended up in the ER, I'm sticking with that program.

I agree completely, with using caution when climbing ice. Which is why I'm so
cautious that I try to avoid hiking over the stuff to get to sunny rock and
don't even think about moving up the vertical stuff. So even if WI3 is like
5.4, consider me the tourist that wants to know you get the rope up there and
thinks you must have special bravery genes to try such a think. It's still
impressive to me, because it's something that I can't imagine doing myself.
From:ichiloe at hotmail.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:21 Jan 2005 05:09:48 -0800
Dingus Milktoast wrote:
> Nice Kellie!

I just got around to reading the whole thread...nice
to see there's life and even climbing in rc yet.
And started by a good TR.

OK, rc got trolled by faux "bumblie." Today it's
Supertopo's turn, roiled by another nom de
rockclimbing.com.
From:Dingus Milktoast
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 16:45:49 GMT

wrote in message
news:1106312988.268510.146770@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Dingus Milktoast wrote:
> > Nice Kellie!
>
> I just got around to reading the whole thread...nice
> to see there's life and even climbing in rc yet.
> And started by a good TR.
>
> OK, rc got trolled by faux "bumblie." Today it's
> Supertopo's turn, roiled by another nom de
> rockclimbing.com.

There taint no scarlet letter T associated with being trolled my friend.
Taint no thang at all.

DMT
From:melissa
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:17 Jan 2005 17:15:12 -0800
In article <1105997189.573493.92220@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
kellie_mcbee@urscorp.com says...

>Anybody else do anything fun this weekend?

Well...I left SLC early Friday evening in hopes of nice weekend weather in
Yosemite, a choice that probably doesn't make much sense if you're sending
sustained WI3. I hit snooze for two solid hours on Saturday morning, but was
still primed for a decent day and a half of cragging as we headed out of
Berkeley around 9 a.m. Then some westbounnd dude decided to see if he could
squeeze in a left past the FedEx truck obscuring my existence in the other
eastbound lane. Smash-o!

We scraped my bent wagon home, got in my boyfriend's, and took a road trip to
the gym in San Francisco instead. Woohoo!

Thanks for the TR! Maybe you can use it to head up the yearly chestpounding
thread?
From:Sue
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 19:01:35 GMT
In article ,
melissa wrote:

> We scraped my bent wagon home, got in my boyfriend's, and took a road trip to
> the gym in San Francisco instead. Woohoo!


you're not safe in the gym either. I popped an A2 pulley in my right
middle finger last thursday.
From:Michael A. Riches
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 18:37:41 -0600

in article shopkins-4760E5.11013518012005@newssvr21-ext.news.prodigy.com,
Sue at shopkins@TAKEOUTucsd.edu wrote on 1/18/05 1:01 PM:

> In article ,
> melissa wrote:
>
>> We scraped my bent wagon home, got in my boyfriend's, and took a road trip to
>> the gym in San Francisco instead. Woohoo!
>
>
> you're not safe in the gym either. I popped an A2 pulley in my right
> middle finger last thursday.

That sucks...Soooo, do ya know a good finger doc...???

Ratzzz...
From:Gary Schenk
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:20:50 GMT
Sue wrote:
> In article ,
> melissa wrote:
>
>> We scraped my bent wagon home, got in my boyfriend's, and took a road trip to
>> the gym in San Francisco instead. Woohoo!
>
>
> you're not safe in the gym either. I popped an A2 pulley in my right
> middle finger last thursday.

Sorry to here that, Sue. Hope you recover quickly. It seems gyms
are only good for causing tendon damage. ( Is that what an A2
pulley is? ) Fortunately, we 5.3 climbers don't have to deal
with tendon issues.

So, can you still flip the bird?
--
Gary Schenk
remove 'fuzz' to reply
From:Sue
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Wed, 19 Jan 2005 16:14:09 GMT
In article <6ujHd.71908$gd.9848@twister.socal.rr.com>,
Gary Schenk wrote:


> So, can you still flip the bird?

A bit of a "perma bird" at the moment...I have to be careful driving.
From:melissa
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:18 Jan 2005 12:33:27 -0800
In article , Sue
says...
>
>In article ,
> melissa wrote:
>
>> We scraped my bent wagon home, got in my boyfriend's, and took a road trip to
>> the gym in San Francisco instead. Woohoo!
>
>
>you're not safe in the gym either. I popped an A2 pulley in my right
>middle finger last thursday.

I worry about that sort of injury especially in the gym. Especially when I
haven't been going much, which as been the case of late.

Bummer about your A2...At least you have winter to get the drop on the healing
process, if it's any consolation.
From:Sue
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Tue, 18 Jan 2005 21:13:53 GMT
In article ,
melissa wrote:

> Bummer about your A2...

Worst thing is it ruptured during a static move, no foot slip or
anything. I was warmed up and all. Even Craig heard it pop.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do if the hand guy says it should be
fixed. My impression is that most climbers don't seek medical attention
with these. Of course now I'm an authority, having done a bunch of
reading and talked to a couple of other people who have done it.

I haven't had much luck with ligaments that begin with "A" on the right
side of my body. AC, ACL, and now my A2. flimsy all of them. I feel
like I should be taking them back to Walmart and getting higher quality,
like maybe at Macy's.

>At least you have winter to get the drop on the healing process, if
it's any consolation.

Prime josh season right now. I had just recovered from getting a nodule
taken out of another finger that kept me out for a few weeks.

sorry for hijacking your thread Kellie.
From:Clyde
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Thu, 20 Jan 2005 02:27:49 GMT
Sue wrote:

> Prime josh season right now. I had just recovered from getting a nodule
> taken out of another finger that kept me out for a few weeks.

Time to get back on the bikes. Middle-aged athlete = periods of fun
between episodes of recovery. Alternative activities are the life saver.
From:kellie_mcbee at urscorp.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:20 Jan 2005 15:35:46 -0800

fern.webb@gmail.com wrote:
> As I have said before McBee. Way to Rock Out with your ... well you
> know...
>

hee hee.

> Too cheap to fix the gas gauge too?
>
er, well, yes. $250+ to pull the gas tank and fix it seems stupid when
I can just use the trip meter. At least, that is, when I don't forget.

> Nice thing about the short drive to the climbs in Hope is the equally
> short drive back to the pub when the freezing rain starts. Note to
> self: Adze does not make a great substitute for windshield scraper.
>
I hear a spoon doesn't work very well either.

I would say it's too bad about the current weather, but I was ready for
a weekend of shenanigans in town anyway, and now I don't have to feel
like I'm missing out on anything.
From:troutboy
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 09:17:09 -0500

wrote in message
news:1106264146.724186.253110@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
>> Nice thing about the short drive to the climbs in Hope is the equally
>> short drive back to the pub when the freezing rain starts. Note to
>> self: Adze does not make a great substitute for windshield scraper.
>>
> I hear a spoon doesn't work very well either.

But oddly enough, a credit card does !

T (ever helpful)
From:Dingus Milktoast
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 16:45:49 GMT

"troutboy" wrote in message
news:35ch7qF4lnui3U1@individual.net...
>
> wrote in message
> news:1106264146.724186.253110@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> >> Nice thing about the short drive to the climbs in Hope is the equally
> >> short drive back to the pub when the freezing rain starts. Note to
> >> self: Adze does not make a great substitute for windshield scraper.
> >>
> > I hear a spoon doesn't work very well either.
>
> But oddly enough, a credit card does !
>
> T (ever helpful)


Just don't use your only gas card when your tank is empty and the wallet has
no cash.

DMT
From:x15x15
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 18:14:07 -0800

"Dingus Milktoast"
> Just don't use your only gas card when your tank is empty and the wallet
> has
> no cash.

Happened to you too?

x15x15
From:DingusMilktoast
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Sat, 22 Jan 2005 02:29:01 GMT

"x15x15" wrote in message
news:10v3dnm626scrb7@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Dingus Milktoast"
> > Just don't use your only gas card when your tank is empty and the wallet
> > has
> > no cash.
>
> Happened to you too?

It happened to me in North Chicago. It was cold and the plastic got brittle.
I wept icicles.

Cheers
DMT
From:Martin Carpenter
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:Fri, 21 Jan 2005 15:23:47 +0100

"troutboy" wrote:
> >> Nice thing about the short drive to the climbs in Hope is the equally
> >> short drive back to the pub when the freezing rain starts. Note to
> >> self: Adze does not make a great substitute for windshield scraper.
> >>
> > I hear a spoon doesn't work very well either.
>
> But oddly enough, a credit card does !

CD case.
From:Brian in SLC
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:17 Jan 2005 14:57:38 -0800

kellie_mc...@urscorp.com wrote:

> Highlights of this weekend's ie climbing trip to Hope, BC:

Hey, you know Loren aka Cascade Climber? Say hi for me!

Thanks for the TR.

> Anybody else do anything fun this weekend?

Tried to ice climb. Too warm. Too much scary snow in the highcountry.
Yikes. Wierd season.

Cheers,

Brian in SLC
From:ichiloe at hotmail.com
Subject:Re: Sutures, River Crossings, and an Empty Gas Tank: Ice in Hope
Date:21 Jan 2005 10:03:58 -0800
Dingus wrote:
> Chaos theory as it pertains to weather.

Weather is -5 F, white snow under bluebird skies here
this morning. The kind of day that gives winter a good
name. Unfortunately I'm indoors under deadline
pressure, and exceeding my post quota online.
   

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